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A gourmet guide to Wales

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The late, great nature writer Roger Deakin once described Wales as a place that ‘crackles with magic’, and with its deep glacial lakes, ancient hill forts, enchanting pine forests and verdant valleys, it’s easy to see why.

Wales is a land of enduring legend, with a vibrant culture steeped in myth and folklore. Its most famous stories, documented in the colourful texts of The Mabinogion, evoke tales of fearsome water monsters, bewitching lake maidens and mischievous ‘mine spirits’.

But no legend is more celebrated in Wales than that of King Arthur. The 12th century writer, Geoffrey of Monmouth, believed Caerleon in Newport to be the site of Camelot, while Dinas Emrys, near Beddgelert, is thought to be where the enchanter Merlin discovered two fighting dragons.   

Stand atop any of Wales’s crowning peaks, from Snowdon in the north to Pen y Fan in the south, and you’ll be rewarded with extraordinary widescreen vistas worthy of any bardd’s poem. No less than five Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty stretch across its rugged terrain, while Wales’s scenic coastline boasts an impressive 48 Blue Flag beaches and marinas. 

The majestic Mount Snowdon, steeped in myth and legend

Inland, its crystal-clear lakes are popular spots for wild swimmers, who flock in the early morning mists to the still waters of Llyn Padarn, Cwm Pennant, Llyn Gwynant and Llyn Geirionydd for an invigorating dip. Out to sea, Pembrokeshire’s laid-back surf scene attracts swell seekers to the waves of Whitesands, Newgale, Tenby and Freshwater West.

If you prefer more hustle and bustle, the tiny, sociable hubs of Cardiff and Swansea have lots to offer. Quayside bars and restaurants line up along lively marinas, and there are lots of parks, castles and museums to explore. Odes to Swansea’s most celebrated son, Dylan Thomas, can be spotted throughout the city.

If you’re heading to Wales on holiday this summer, be sure to check out our top picks for 20 things to do, places to see and, of course, flavours to try in this beautiful part of the British Isles.

Where to explore…

  1. The splendid castles of Beaumaris and Conwy, built by Edward I in the 13th century, are striking testaments to Wales’s rich history.
  2. Spend a long afternoon in one of Hay-on-Wye’s many bookshops, where you’ll discover gems like Murder and Mayhem, dedicated to true crime and fiction.
  3. Brave the natural rapids on the River Tryweryn at Bala, home of The National White Water Centre
  4. Hike up Mount Snowdon and survey the majestic view from the top across Snowdonia National Park. From here, you can see the pristine waters of Llyn Llydaw and Glaslyn. A mountain railway runs regularly to the top for the less energetic.
  5. Head to the seaside town of Laugharne, which poet Dylan Thomas described as a ‘black-magical bedlam by the sea’. Thomas’s former home – The Boathouse – is open for part of the year.
  6. See the largest colony of puffins in Southern Britain at Skomer Island, just off the Pembrokeshire coast.
  7. If you’ve a head for heights, hop in a canoe and glide along the spectacular Pontcysyllte Aqueduct in Llangollen – a marvel of engineering perched 126ft above the River Dee.
  8. Swansea’s National Waterfront Museum is one of the new-generation museums to offer real hands-on history and a sense of cultural identity.
  9. The village at Portmeirion, home to cult TV series The Prisoner and latterly, the hip Festival No. 6, brings a frisson of Italianate architecture to Wales.
  10. Catch the World Bog Snorkelling Championships, an annual August event where swimmers battle through the black waters of peat bogs in Llanwrtyd Wells.

What to eat…

11. Try one of Wales’s local delicacies, such as bara brith (fruit bread) or a bowl of cawl (lamb stew), from one of the many farmers’ markets.

12. Walk along the beach from pastel-fronted Aberdovey to neighbouring Twywn, where the delights of Wales’s famous honey ice cream await at Holgates.

13. Treat yourself to an unforgettable evening at one of Wales’ seven Michelin Star restaurants; the strikingly understated Ynyshir holds two stars, while there are one star venues in Cardiff, Aberystwyth, Menai, Llanddewi Skirrid, Oxwich and Whitebrook.

14. Wander through the Medieval walled fishing village of Conwy – the castle and marina are beautiful, but the real draw is Conwy’s plump and flavourful mussels – a must-try. You’ll find them in most local restaurants, or you can buy direct.

15. Head to the award-winning Aber Falls Distillery in the sleepy village of Abergwyngregyn to sample its exceptional range of whisky, gin and liqueur. To give you a flavour of what you might expect, here’s our recent feature on Aber Falls. Hic!

16. Savour the sharp, tangy and irresistible taste of Wales’ much-loved Caerphilly cheese at Cairfai Farm Shop, open from early June to September.

17. Artisan producer Cafe Mor, which runs a unique solar-powered mobile seaweed kitchen (a world first, we’re told!) – is the perfect place to sample traditional Welsh delicacy, laverbread – made from edible seaweed.

18. Discover some of the most exquisite honey in Wales at Afon Mel Honey Farm in Ceredigion – don’t forget to try their award-winning heather honey mead!

19. Fish and chips by the sea is an absolute must – Hiks in Swansea is considered among the best, but there are lots to choose from.

20. And of course, no visit to Wales would be complete without sampling the famous Welsh rarebit. You’ll find it on most restaurant menus!

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